What Material Is Best for a Shirt? Pros and Cons of Each Type

When choosing a shirt, most consumers focus on size or style—but fabric composition is equally crucial. The material impacts not only the aesthetic and drape but also thermal regulation, moisture management, durability, laundering behaviour, and longevity.

At Tellar.co.uk, we specialise in matching body measurements to the exact sizing data of over 1,500 brands. But fit alone isn’t enough—choosing the right fabric ensures your shirt feels as good as it looks and performs across wear cycles. Below is a detailed breakdown of the most common shirt materials, including fibre science, structural performance, pros, cons, and use-case suitability.

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1. Cotton

Fibre type: Natural cellulose

Common weaves: Poplin, Oxford, Twill, Broadcloth, End-on-end

Average GSM: 100–150 g/m² (shirts)

Cotton is the global benchmark for shirting fabric, comprising over 70% of shirt production globally. It offers excellent breathability, tensile strength (400–600 MPa), and moisture absorption (~8.5%).

Pros:

• Highly breathable due to hydrophilic nature

• Hypoallergenic and soft to the touch

• Good tensile and tear strength

• Versatile across climates and dress codes

Cons:

• Prone to wrinkling and creasing without synthetic treatment

• May shrink up to 3–5% unless sanforized (pre-shrunk)

• Susceptible to mildew if not dried thoroughly

Use Cases:

• Everyday wear, corporate shirts, dress shirts

• Explore brand-specific cotton shirt sizing

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2. Linen

Fibre type: Natural cellulose (flax plant)

Average GSM: 130–170 g/m²

Air permeability: Very high (~12–14 cm³/cm²/s)

Linen is a superior hot-climate fabric due to its hollow fibre structure, offering rapid moisture-wicking and excellent airflow. Its stiffness contributes to its characteristic wrinkling.

Pros:

• Superior cooling capacity due to capillary action

• Highly durable—30% stronger than cotton

• Naturally antibacterial

Cons:

• Wrinkles easily due to fibre rigidity

• Coarser hand-feel compared to combed cotton

• Reduced elasticity—can lose shape under tension

Use Cases:

• Resortwear, casual summer shirts, relaxed tailoring

• Guide: Summer Shirts by Body Shape

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3. Polyester

Fibre type: Synthetic (PET-based)

Moisture regain: ~0.4%

Abrasion resistance: Very high

Polyester is engineered for durability and wrinkle resistance. It performs best in high-stress, high-wear scenarios, but lacks natural thermoregulation.

Pros:

• Wrinkle-resistant and holds pleats well

• Low absorbency = quick drying

• Excellent colourfastness and UV resistance

Cons:

• Poor breathability; traps heat and odours

• Non-biodegradable

• Less tactile comfort compared to natural fibres

Use Cases:

• Uniforms, travel shirts, technical blends

• Compare synthetic blend sizes with Tellar

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4. Cotton-Polyester Blends (CVC / PC Blends)

Typical ratio: 60% cotton / 40% polyester (CVC); or reversed

Blending method: Core-spun or intimate blends

Blended fabrics offer an optimised balance between comfort and performance, combining cotton’s breathability with polyester’s structure.

Pros:

• Improved wrinkle and shrink resistance

• More durable over repeated laundering

• Lower cost than 100% cotton of comparable quality

Cons:

• Less breathable than pure cotton

• Risk of pilling depending on polyester grade

• Static cling issues in dry environments

Use Cases:

• Daily wear, business-casual, mixed-climate wardrobes

• Find size-matched blends across brands

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5. Viscose (Rayon)

Fibre type: Regenerated cellulose (wood pulp)

Moisture regain: ~11–13%

Drape: Very high (often compared to silk)

Viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre offering a luxurious feel at a mid-tier price point. It is highly breathable and drapes elegantly, making it ideal for flowy, tailored silhouettes.

Pros:

• Silky texture and high sheen

• Breathable and lightweight

• Biodegradable (unlike synthetics)

Cons:

• Weak when wet – fibre strength drops ~50%

• Prone to shrinking and wrinkling

• Requires delicate care (cold wash or dry clean)

Use Cases:

• Dress shirts, fluid silhouettes, relaxed fit designs

• Read: How to Style Shirts for Occasionwear

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6. Silk

Fibre type: Natural protein (silkworm)

Thermal conductivity: Low—great temperature regulator

Moisture regain: 11%

Silk is revered for its natural lustre, tensile strength (up to 600 MPa), and thermo-regulation. Despite its fragility, it offers unique aesthetic and tactile appeal.

Pros:

• Luxurious sheen and softness

• Naturally regulates temperature

• Strong for its weight

Cons:

• Very delicate—snags and stains easily

• Expensive and requires dry cleaning

• Low abrasion resistance

Use Cases:

• Formal shirts, occasionwear, high-fashion pieces

• Discover high-end shirts that match your size

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7. TENCEL™ (Lyocell)

Fibre type: Regenerated cellulose (closed-loop process)

Eco profile: Fully biodegradable, solvent recovery rate ~99.8%

Moisture absorption: 50% more than cotton

TENCEL™ is gaining traction for its eco-credentials and performance. It mimics the comfort of cotton while being gentler on the environment and offering superior breathability.

Pros:

• Soft, breathable, and moisture-wicking

• Naturally inhibits bacterial growth

• Sustainable—closed-loop production using FSC-certified wood

Cons:

• Wrinkles more than polyester but less than linen

• Higher cost vs. conventional viscose

• Delicate in tumble dryers

Use Cases:

• Sustainable shirts, athleisure, elevated casual

• Sustainable fashion post on Tellar

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8. Flannel (Brushed Cotton/Wool)

Fabric technique: Brushed plain/twill weave

Insulation: High due to trapped air in nap

Seasonality: Autumn/Winter

Flannel isn’t a fibre but a textile finish. It is typically made by brushing cotton or wool to create a soft, warm nap.

Pros:

• Retains warmth

• Soft to wear—reduced skin friction

• Casual, heritage-inspired aesthetic

Cons:

• Too warm for spring/summer wear

• Pilling over time

• Bulkier fit—not ideal for layering under jackets

Use Cases:

• Winter casuals, heritage fits, workwear

• Tellar: Find your best flannel shirt brands

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Technical Summary Table

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Final Thoughts & CTA

No shirt is one-size-fits-all—and neither is fabric choice. Your climate, sensitivity, lifestyle, and laundering preferences all play a role. Once you’ve chosen your ideal fabric, don’t gamble on sizing.

At Tellar.co.uk, we match your exact body measurements to the shirt sizes of over 1,500 brands using actual product data. Get the right fit in cotton, silk, linen, or TENCEL™—in seconds.

✅ Create your free size profile now

✅ Use our Store Size Lookup Tool to find what fits—fast.

✅ Learn how to measure yourself accurately

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