The Ultimate Shirt Guide: How to Choose the Right Fit and Style for Work and Weekend Wear
Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar
Date: 2025
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Not all shirts are created equal—and with over 1,500 brands using inconsistent sizing, navigating your perfect fit has never been more complicated. From boardroom-ready blouses to off-duty overshirts, getting the right cut, fabric, and structure is crucial—not just for style, but also for functionality, movement, and layering.
In this post, we’ll break down:
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What shirts work best for smart vs casual wear
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How to match shirt types to your body shape
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The technical differences between poplin, oxford, satin, and flannel
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Which brands run small or large and why
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How to use Tellar.co.uk to get your exact size—accurately and in real-time
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Backlinks to expert sizing guides, fit tips, and smart shopping strategies from the Tellar blog
📌 Start Here:
Smart / Workwear Shirts: Structure, Performance & Professionalism
1. Poplin Shirts (Structured Cotton)
Best for: Corporate environments, meetings, interviews
Fabric specs:
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Poplin uses a fine horizontal rib in the weave for a flat, smooth finish
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Naturally wrinkle-resistant, especially when blended with elastane
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Offers a crisp, structured look with minimal drape—ideal for tailoring
Brands to try:
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Reiss – sharp tailoring; slim fit with high armholes
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T.M. Lewin – formal, good for those with broader shoulders
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Uniqlo U – affordable Japanese-engineered poplin
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Joseph – luxury finish, cut for a European frame
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Sezane – more feminine tailoring; runs slim across the bust
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Boss – great for tall men, strong collar structure
📌 Related: How Smart Shirts Should Really Fit
👉 Find your perfect poplin fit with Tellar
2. Silk & Satin Shirts
Best for: Business-casual, elevated smart dressing, evening work events
Technical facts:
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Silk is breathable, hypoallergenic, and strong for its weight
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Satin is a weave, not a fibre—look for silk satin blends over polyester to avoid static
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Best for hourglass or rectangular shapes; suits those who prefer drape over structure
Brand favourites:
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ME+EM – luxury tailoring, hidden buttons, subtle darts
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Rails – US brand known for silky finish and prints
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Boden – well-cut for UK proportions
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Zara Premium Collection – stylish but runs very small
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Everlane – minimalist silk shirts; slightly boxy
📌 Related: The Truth About Silk Sizing Across Brands
3. Oxford Shirts
Best for: Business-casual workplaces, transitional wardrobes
Fabric specs:
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Oxford cloth uses a basketweave construction for durability
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Offers more breathability than poplin and softens over time
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Slightly heavier; suits layering and everyday wear
Reliable brands:
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GANT – classic Oxford pioneer; long in body
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Brooks Brothers – preppy, multiple fits
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Arket – modern fit, great for tall frames
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Frank & Eileen – premium, flattering curved hems
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Mango – smart styles with darts for shape
👉 Use Tellar.co.uk to compare Oxford sizing across these brands
Casual Shirts: Texture, Movement, and Shape Expression
4. Oversized Cotton & Shackets
Best for: Weekend wear, street style, smart-casual layering
Key details:
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Shackets typically feature twill or brushed cotton and may be unlined
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Oversized fits offer more coverage and styling flexibility—but must balance your frame
Top picks:
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Arket – structured shapes in muted palettes
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Weekday – Scandinavian cuts, generous sizing
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COS – architectural, clean lines; runs large
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H&M Conscious – affordable, oversized streetwear
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Massimo Dutti – belted versions suit petite frames
📌 Related: How to Wear Oversized Shirts Without Losing Shape
5. Flannel, Brushed Cotton & Checked Shirts
Best for: Autumn layering, off-duty looks, transitional seasons
Fabric insights:
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Brushed cotton is softer but warmer—great for UK climates
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Flannel uses a plain or twill weave with brushing on both sides for softness
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Thicker weaves can restrict mobility if cut slim—watch for stretch blends
Go-to brands:
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Levi’s – narrow shoulders; best for straight shapes
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Carhartt WIP – heavyweight and boxy
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Dickies – utility flannel; built to last
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Barbour – classic outdoors cuts
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Toast – natural fibres, ethical focus
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FatFace – UK brand, generous across chest
📌 Related: Are Flannel Shirts Worth It? Durability, Warmth & Fit
6. Linen Shirts
Best for: Summer dressing, beachwear, casual city layering
Fabric performance:
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Linen is thermoregulating and moisture-wicking
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Prone to creasing; look for blends with viscose or cotton for easier care
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Best worn loose and lightly tailored—tight linen will pull and lose shape
Recommended brands:
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J.Crew – excellent linen blend for men and women
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Sézane – soft linen shirts with curved hems
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Zara – linen blends that require size-up in many styles
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Everlane – oversized linen for warm climates
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M&S Linen Rich Collection – true to UK sizing
📌 Related: The Best Linen Brands for UK Weather
Body Shape Recommendations for Shirts
Hourglass:
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Best with waist darting, wrap silhouettes, stretch blends
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Brands: ME+EM, Reiss, Whistles
Rectangle / Athletic:
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Look for voluminous sleeves, layering potential, bold collars
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Brands: COS, Mango, Zara Studio
Apple:
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Flowy fits, v-necks, pleated backs, and side slits
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Brands: Marks & Spencer, H&M+, Everlane
Pear:
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Add shoulder detail—epaulettes, prints, structure up top
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Brands: Massimo Dutti, Hobbs, & Other Stories
Petite:
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Avoid longline; opt for cropped or boxy
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Brands: Topshop Petite, Boden Petite, Sézane
Tall:
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Embrace tunic lengths, long sleeves, and oversized cuts
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Brands: Arket, COS, Whistles Tall
👉 Tellar’s Body Fit Engine recommends shirt styles and sizes by your exact proportions.
Why Shirts Vary So Drastically Between Brands
Sizing inconsistency comes from:
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Different fit models (e.g. tall European frames vs petite US cuts)
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Variation in pattern grading from size 8–16
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Intentional style design (boxy, cropped, fitted)
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Fabric behaviour (shrinkage, stretch, drape)
📌 Example Variations:
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Reiss is narrow at the waist and bust
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Zara changes fit with each season
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Mango often adds length to shirt hems
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H&M runs oversized for trend cuts
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Uniqlo is cut shorter through the torso
👉 Avoid brand-to-brand confusion with the Tellar Sizing Tool
Why Tellar.co.uk Is the Only Tool You Need for Shirts
Tellar.co.uk uses actual measurement data—not just label sizes—to give you:
✅ Shirt recommendations by brand, cut, and body shape
✅ Instant size results across 1,500+ UK and EU brands
✅ Conversion for UK, US, and EU shirt sizes
✅ Fit tips for casual, smart, and oversized silhouettes
✅ Profile saving for future logins
Final CTA – Shirts Done Right with Tellar.co.uk
Whether you're shopping for a tailored white shirt or a bold weekend flannel, your choice should reflect how it fits your body—not the number on the label.
With Tellar.co.uk, you get a real-world size recommendation that works across 1,500+ brands, takes less than a minute, and helps reduce returns dramatically.
“Find your size in 1,500+ brands real-time. It’s free & easy”
Start now: https://www.tellar.co.uk