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The Ultimate Shirt Guide: How to Choose the Right Fit and Style for Work and Weekend Wear

Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar

Date: 2025

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We will never be influenced by brands - just the perfect Fit, Size & Style for you. Search thousands of honest posts for free, written by our stylists - your own personal shopper.

Not all shirts are created equal—and with over 1,500 brands using inconsistent sizing, navigating your perfect fit has never been more complicated. From boardroom-ready blouses to off-duty overshirts, getting the right cut, fabric, and structure is crucial—not just for style, but also for functionality, movement, and layering.

In this post, we’ll break down:

  • What shirts work best for smart vs casual wear

  • How to match shirt types to your body shape

  • The technical differences between poplin, oxford, satin, and flannel

  • Which brands run small or large and why

  • How to use Tellar.co.uk to get your exact size—accurately and in real-time

  • Backlinks to expert sizing guides, fit tips, and smart shopping strategies from the Tellar blog


📌 Start Here:


Smart / Workwear Shirts: Structure, Performance & Professionalism

1. Poplin Shirts (Structured Cotton)

Best for: Corporate environments, meetings, interviews

Fabric specs:

  • Poplin uses a fine horizontal rib in the weave for a flat, smooth finish

  • Naturally wrinkle-resistant, especially when blended with elastane

  • Offers a crisp, structured look with minimal drape—ideal for tailoring

Brands to try:

  • Reiss – sharp tailoring; slim fit with high armholes

  • T.M. Lewin – formal, good for those with broader shoulders

  • Uniqlo U – affordable Japanese-engineered poplin

  • Joseph – luxury finish, cut for a European frame

  • Sezane – more feminine tailoring; runs slim across the bust

  • Boss – great for tall men, strong collar structure

📌 Related: How Smart Shirts Should Really Fit

👉 Find your perfect poplin fit with Tellar


2. Silk & Satin Shirts

Best for: Business-casual, elevated smart dressing, evening work events

Technical facts:

  • Silk is breathable, hypoallergenic, and strong for its weight

  • Satin is a weave, not a fibre—look for silk satin blends over polyester to avoid static

  • Best for hourglass or rectangular shapes; suits those who prefer drape over structure

Brand favourites:

  • ME+EM – luxury tailoring, hidden buttons, subtle darts

  • Rails – US brand known for silky finish and prints

  • Boden – well-cut for UK proportions

  • Zara Premium Collection – stylish but runs very small

  • Everlane – minimalist silk shirts; slightly boxy

📌 Related: The Truth About Silk Sizing Across Brands


3. Oxford Shirts

Best for: Business-casual workplaces, transitional wardrobes

Fabric specs:

  • Oxford cloth uses a basketweave construction for durability

  • Offers more breathability than poplin and softens over time

  • Slightly heavier; suits layering and everyday wear

Reliable brands:

  • GANT – classic Oxford pioneer; long in body

  • Brooks Brothers – preppy, multiple fits

  • Arket – modern fit, great for tall frames

  • Frank & Eileen – premium, flattering curved hems

  • Mango – smart styles with darts for shape

👉 Use Tellar.co.uk to compare Oxford sizing across these brands


Casual Shirts: Texture, Movement, and Shape Expression

4. Oversized Cotton & Shackets

Best for: Weekend wear, street style, smart-casual layering

Key details:

  • Shackets typically feature twill or brushed cotton and may be unlined

  • Oversized fits offer more coverage and styling flexibility—but must balance your frame

Top picks:

  • Arket – structured shapes in muted palettes

  • Weekday – Scandinavian cuts, generous sizing

  • COS – architectural, clean lines; runs large

  • H&M Conscious – affordable, oversized streetwear

  • Massimo Dutti – belted versions suit petite frames

📌 Related: How to Wear Oversized Shirts Without Losing Shape


5. Flannel, Brushed Cotton & Checked Shirts

Best for: Autumn layering, off-duty looks, transitional seasons

Fabric insights:

  • Brushed cotton is softer but warmer—great for UK climates

  • Flannel uses a plain or twill weave with brushing on both sides for softness

  • Thicker weaves can restrict mobility if cut slim—watch for stretch blends

Go-to brands:

  • Levi’s – narrow shoulders; best for straight shapes

  • Carhartt WIP – heavyweight and boxy

  • Dickies – utility flannel; built to last

  • Barbour – classic outdoors cuts

  • Toast – natural fibres, ethical focus

  • FatFace – UK brand, generous across chest

📌 Related: Are Flannel Shirts Worth It? Durability, Warmth & Fit


6. Linen Shirts

Best for: Summer dressing, beachwear, casual city layering

Fabric performance:

  • Linen is thermoregulating and moisture-wicking

  • Prone to creasing; look for blends with viscose or cotton for easier care

  • Best worn loose and lightly tailored—tight linen will pull and lose shape

Recommended brands:

  • J.Crew – excellent linen blend for men and women

  • Sézane – soft linen shirts with curved hems

  • Zara – linen blends that require size-up in many styles

  • Everlane – oversized linen for warm climates

  • M&S Linen Rich Collection – true to UK sizing

📌 Related: The Best Linen Brands for UK Weather


Body Shape Recommendations for Shirts

Hourglass:

  • Best with waist darting, wrap silhouettes, stretch blends

  • Brands: ME+EM, Reiss, Whistles

Rectangle / Athletic:

  • Look for voluminous sleeves, layering potential, bold collars

  • Brands: COS, Mango, Zara Studio

Apple:

  • Flowy fits, v-necks, pleated backs, and side slits

  • Brands: Marks & Spencer, H&M+, Everlane

Pear:

  • Add shoulder detail—epaulettes, prints, structure up top

  • Brands: Massimo Dutti, Hobbs, & Other Stories

Petite:

  • Avoid longline; opt for cropped or boxy

  • Brands: Topshop Petite, Boden Petite, Sézane

Tall:

  • Embrace tunic lengths, long sleeves, and oversized cuts

  • Brands: Arket, COS, Whistles Tall

👉 Tellar’s Body Fit Engine recommends shirt styles and sizes by your exact proportions.


Why Shirts Vary So Drastically Between Brands

Sizing inconsistency comes from:

  • Different fit models (e.g. tall European frames vs petite US cuts)

  • Variation in pattern grading from size 8–16

  • Intentional style design (boxy, cropped, fitted)

  • Fabric behaviour (shrinkage, stretch, drape)

📌 Example Variations:

  • Reiss is narrow at the waist and bust

  • Zara changes fit with each season

  • Mango often adds length to shirt hems

  • H&M runs oversized for trend cuts

  • Uniqlo is cut shorter through the torso

👉 Avoid brand-to-brand confusion with the Tellar Sizing Tool


Why Tellar.co.uk Is the Only Tool You Need for Shirts

Tellar.co.uk uses actual measurement data—not just label sizes—to give you:

✅ Shirt recommendations by brand, cut, and body shape

✅ Instant size results across 1,500+ UK and EU brands

✅ Conversion for UK, US, and EU shirt sizes

✅ Fit tips for casual, smart, and oversized silhouettes

✅ Profile saving for future logins


Final CTA – Shirts Done Right with Tellar.co.uk

Whether you're shopping for a tailored white shirt or a bold weekend flannel, your choice should reflect how it fits your body—not the number on the label.

With Tellar.co.uk, you get a real-world size recommendation that works across 1,500+ brands, takes less than a minute, and helps reduce returns dramatically.


“Find your size in 1,500+ brands real-time. It’s free & easy”

Start now: https://www.tellar.co.uk