Shirts: What Material Should I Buy? A Technical Fabric and Fit Guide for Everyday Dressing

Shirts are the cornerstone of modern wardrobes—worn for work, weekends, events, and everything in between. But one of the most overlooked decisions when shopping for shirts is material. From crisp cotton poplin to relaxed linen, stretch blends to structured twill, your choice of fabric affects comfort, fit, durability, breathability, and how the shirt moves with you.

In this technical guide, we break down the best shirt materials, what each one is suited for, how they affect sizing and wear, and how to avoid costly fit mistakes—especially when buying online. With over 1,500 brands supported, tellar.co.uk is the UK’s leading free sizing tool, helping you get the perfect shirt size first time.

Why Shirt Material Matters

Shirt sizing can be deceptive—a cotton Oxford in size M may fit entirely differently than a rayon blend in the same size. Tellar.co.uk takes material and brand-specific sizing into account for precision fitting.

1. Cotton Poplin: The Crisp Classic

Technical Specs:

• Tightly woven cotton with a smooth, fine texture

• Lightweight, crisp, and cool against the skin

• Common in formalwear, business shirts, and uniform basics

Best For:

• Office shirts, structured fits, formal occasions

• Brands: Charles Tyrwhitt, TM Lewin, Mango, Uniqlo

Pros:

• Holds shape well

• Breathable in summer

• Easy to iron with steam

Cons:

• Shows wrinkles easily

• Less flexible (no stretch) unless blended

Fit Tip:

Poplin is non-stretch and unforgiving if tight at the chest or shoulders. Use tellar.co.uk to ensure your neck size and shoulder width match brand blocks, especially for slim fits.

2. Oxford Cotton: Durable and Textured

Technical Specs:

• Basketweave construction with thicker yarns

• More casual than poplin, slightly heavier

• Softens over time with washing

Best For:

• Casual and business-casual looks

• Layering in cooler seasons

• Brands: Gap, Reiss, Arket

Pros:

• Long-lasting and robust

• More forgiving in fit

• Easier to iron than linen

Cons:

• Less breathable than poplin

• Can feel bulky under jackets

Recommendation:

Great for transitional weather. Oxford shirts can feel roomy—check exact measurements using tellar.co.uk before assuming your size.

3. Linen: Lightweight and Ultra-Breathable

Technical Specs:

• Derived from flax fibres

• Loosely woven for air circulation

• Prone to wrinkling

Best For:

• Summer shirts, relaxed tailoring, holiday wear

• Brands: Massimo Dutti, M&S, & Other Stories

Pros:

• Maximum breathability

• Naturally antibacterial

• Gets softer with wear

Cons:

• Wrinkles easily

• Shrinks slightly after washing

• May feel stiff at first

Expert Tip:

Linen fits can vary dramatically. Some are cut slim, others oversized. Before buying, check brand-specific fit data with tellar.co.uk. Don’t rely on tag size alone.

4. Twill Weave: Smooth, Draping, and Wrinkle-Resistant

Technical Specs:

• Diagonal weave, thicker than poplin

• Offers stretch-like give even when 100% cotton

• Used in high-end dress shirts

Best For:

• Formal shirts, dressy layering

• Cooler weather or structured outfits

• Brands: Eton, Hawes & Curtis, Zara

Pros:

• Drapes beautifully

• Resists wrinkles

• Strong and hard-wearing

Cons:

• Heavier than poplin

• Not ideal for very hot climates

Fit Guide:

Twill fabrics tend to drape closer to the body. If you're between sizes, check your chest and waist ratio on Tellar.co.uk before committing to a tailored or slim fit.

5. Stretch Blends: Movement-Friendly & Modern

Technical Specs:

• Often a mix of cotton with elastane, spandex, or modal

• Designed to move with the body

• Increasingly common in slim and athletic cuts

Best For:

• Office-to-evening shirts

• Slim/athletic builds

• Brands: Hugo Boss, Next, Ted Baker

Pros:

• Comfortable movement

• Stays tucked in

• Wrinkle recovery

Cons:

• Can cling if too tight

• Fabric may degrade faster with hot washing

Fit Advice:

Stretch doesn’t mean oversized—size for structure not looseness. Tellar.co.uk factors in how stretch fabrics behave brand-to-brand so your fit is functional and sharp.

6. Viscose, Rayon and Modal: Smooth and Drapey

Technical Specs:

• Regenerated cellulose fibres (from wood pulp)

• Often blended with cotton or polyester

• Silky soft feel, excellent drape

Best For:

• Smart-casual shirts, party wear

• Fluid tailoring

• Brands: AllSaints, River Island, COS

Pros:

• Lightweight and fluid

• Drapes beautifully

• Cool against skin

Cons:

• Can shrink or stretch with improper washing

• Requires low-temp ironing

Pro Tip:

These shirts tend to run long and drapey. Use tellar.co.uk to avoid buying a cut that overhangs or balloons if you’re on the shorter side.

Seasonal Shirt Fabric Recommendations

Common Shirt Buying Mistakes to Avoid

❌ Ignoring fibre content—poplin, twill and Oxford cotton behave very differently

❌ Choosing “slim fit” without verifying shoulder and chest size

❌ Overlooking collar types (spread vs cutaway vs button-down)

❌ Not accounting for post-wash shrinkage

❌ Buying off tag size alone—especially in stretch blends or linen

The easiest way to avoid these pitfalls?tellar.co.uk matches your exact measurements to shirt fits by brand, fabric type, and even cut.

Shirt Fit Fundamentals: Why Size Varies by Material

• Cotton poplin has zero stretch—tight fits can feel restrictive

• Linen expands and contracts, especially in warm weather

• Blends with elastane are more forgiving, but can mislead on size

• Oxford and twill shrink less but drape differently

Tellar.co.uk calculates size based on body shape, layering preference, and material behaviour. You can even build a profile based on a known size in a favourite shirt brand.

✅ tellar.co.uk

Brand Fit Spotlight

Use tellar.co.uk to explore each brand’s actual block pattern and avoid misfitting shirts—even if you’ve bought from them before.

Connect with Tellar.co.uk

We help you shop smarter with sizing certainty built in.

• Instagram – @Tellarsizing

• Pinterest – TellarUK

• Facebook – Tellar Sizing

• X (Twitter) – @TellarSizing

Final Word

Whether it’s linen for summer, twill for winter, or poplin for your 9–5, the right shirt material makes a huge difference. But so does the right size—and that's where Tellar.co.uk comes in.

Say goodbye to poorly fitting collars, tight shoulders, and awkward returns. Tellar matches your measurements to real shirt sizing across more than 1,500 UK brands and retailers.

Find your perfect shirt size now. It’s free & easy