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Jackets: What Type Should I Buy for My Body Shape?

Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar

Date: 2025

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When it comes to jackets, a poor fit can undermine even the most premium design. Choosing the right jacket isn’t just about style—it’s a technical consideration of structure, proportion, fabric behaviour, and cut. For consumers looking to invest in wardrobe pieces that complement their frame and fit properly without trial and error, understanding body shape is key. At Tellar.co.uk, we match your exact measurements to 1,500+ brands to help you find your correct size instantly—removing the guesswork from outerwear shopping.

This guide outlines the most effective jacket styles per body shape, technical considerations when selecting structure and fabric, and how Tellar.co.uk helps you navigate sizing inconsistencies between brands with real-time precision.


1. Why Jacket Fit Matters More Than You Think

A jacket’s fit defines your entire silhouette. Unlike a jumper or shirt, a jacket must work across three layers: base layer, mid-layer, and outer shell. If it fails at any level—shoulder seam placement, waist suppression, sleeve pitch—the result is visible imbalance. According to retail analytics by Edited (2024), outerwear returns are 23% higher than other categories, primarily due to incorrect fit.

Tellar.co.uk eliminates this by using your chest, waist, and hip measurements to calculate your ideal size per brand and garment type. Whether shopping for a belted trench or a structured wool blazer, fit precision is critical—and achievable with data.


2. Understanding Your Body Shape

Before selecting jacket types, identify your base shape. Here’s a technical breakdown:

Body Shape

Characteristics

Hourglass

Proportional bust and hips, narrow waist

Pear-shaped

Hips wider than bust and shoulders

Apple-shaped

Full midsection, narrow hips and limbs

Rectangle

Bust, waist, hips nearly the same width

Inverted Triangle

Broad shoulders, narrow hips

Accurate body shape assessment can be done using Tellar’s printable measuring tape and profile creator, ensuring measurement-based guidance rather than assumption-led styling.


3. Hourglass Shape: Emphasise the Waist, Maintain Proportions

Best Styles:

  • Tailored single-breasted jackets

  • Belted trenches and wrap coats

  • Peplum hemline styles

Technical Tips:

  • Shoulder seams should align exactly with your natural shoulder.

  • Look for jackets with waist darts or princess seams for enhanced shaping.

  • Avoid double-breasted styles with boxy cuts—these disguise your natural waist and add bulk.

🔗 Use Tellar’s store size lookup to compare how waist shaping differs across brands like Reiss, Hobbs and Ted Baker.


4. Pear-Shaped: Build the Top Half, Skim the Hips

Best Styles:

  • Structured shoulders (raglan or set-in sleeves with padding)

  • Cropped jackets ending above the hip line

  • A-line or swing cuts that flow outwards

Avoid:

  • Jacket hems that stop at your widest point.

  • Longline double-breasted coats that add unnecessary volume to the lower body.

Fit Tip:

Look for fabrics with upward visual lines (e.g., vertical darts, lapel notches) to draw the eye vertically.

📍 Tellar’s database identifies how hip measurements align with sizes at brands like COS, Arket, and Mango—try it here.


5. Apple-Shaped: Elongate, Avoid Midsection Bulk

Best Styles:

  • Open-front draped jackets

  • Duster coats with vertical seamlines

  • Single-breasted, softly tailored silhouettes

Avoid:

  • Bulky closures like toggles, zips or heavy buttons.

  • Cropped lengths that highlight the midsection.

Technical Detail:

Opt for mid-weight fabrics that hold structure but don’t add girth—e.g., boiled wool or neoprene blends. Use vertical lapels and longline edges to elongate.

🎯 Use Tellar.co.uk to check how each brand defines waist-to-hip proportions before purchasing.


6. Rectangle Shape: Add Curves and Structure

Best Styles:

  • Double-breasted coats

  • Cropped jackets with hemline flares

  • Jackets with belts or cinched waists

Avoid:

  • Straight boxy cuts without any darting or shaping.

  • Fabric with no drape or stiffness, which can exaggerate flatness.

Recommendation:

Choose jacket styles that break up the vertical plane. Jackets with asymmetric closures or waist seams visually define curves.

📌 Use Tellar’s profile tool to compare waist-to-bust ratios between brands—ideal for rectangle shapes aiming for proportion control.


7. Inverted Triangle: Minimise Width at the Shoulders

Best Styles:

  • A-line cuts

  • Soft-shouldered designs (e.g., dropped seams)

  • Collarless jackets or those with slim lapels

Avoid:

  • Military jackets, epaulettes or shoulder detailing.

  • Thick shoulder pads or dramatic collars.

Technical Consideration:

Balance is created by visually widening the lower body—opt for belted designs or peplum hem jackets that flare out.

💡 Compare how brands like ME+EM, Whistles, and Massimo Dutti cut their jackets using Tellar’s smart fit engine.


8. Technical Fabric & Construction Tips

Jackets vary not just in silhouette but in behaviour—meaning fabric and construction directly impact fit and flattery.

Key Fabric Notes:

  • Wool blends = structure and warmth; ideal for tailored coats.

  • Poly-viscose blends = more forgiving; good for mid-season jackets.

  • Cotton twill or denim = structured but not stretchy; sizing must be precise.

  • Stretch blends (elastane) = great for flexible fits if between sizes.

📏 Tellar recommends entering your full bust, waist, and hip measurements using inches or cm—your choice. Switching between units is simple on your profile dashboard.


9. Fit Checklist: Jacket Edition

  • Shoulder seam alignment: The seam should sit at the edge of your natural shoulder.

  • No pulling at bust or waist: Horizontal lines indicate it's too tight.

  • Sleeve length ends at the wrist bone for most structured jackets.

  • Collar sits flat without lifting at the back.

🔍 At Tellar.co.uk, we assess brand-specific measurements—not just labelled size—to confirm these fit points automatically.


10. Common Fit Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake

Impact

Fix

Buying oversized for layering

Adds volume in wrong areas

Choose true size and wear slimmer layers

Ignoring hip measurement

Causes jacket to pull at the bottom

Use full-body measurements on Tellar

Assuming size is universal

Every brand cuts differently

Use Tellar’s comparison engine


Brand Fit Considerations

Every label uses a proprietary fit model. Here are examples of variation across UK high-street and designer brands:

Brand

Tends to Run

Good for Body Shape

Reiss

Slim

Hourglass, Rectangle

Zara

Small

Rectangle, Pear

COS

Large

Apple, Inverted Triangle

Whistles

True to size

Hourglass, Pear

Massimo Dutti

Narrow shoulders

Rectangle, Inverted Triangle

📎 Tellar cross-checks your body data with these brand metrics. Try it at www.tellar.co.uk.


Call to Action: Let Tellar.co.uk Eliminate Jacket Guesswork

Finding a jacket that fits both your shape and your size used to mean trial and error. With Tellar.co.uk, you only need to:

  1. Create a profile with your three key measurements.

  2. Instantly see what size you are in over 1,500 brands.

  3. Get style-matched based on shape, cut, and fit history.

Stop returning jackets. Start wearing them confidently.

👉 Create your free profile now

🎯 Use the size lookup tool for real-time jacket recommendations

📎 Download the measuring tape to start measuring accurately


Follow Us for More Professional Fit Advice

📍 Instagram: @Tellarsizing

📍 Pinterest: TellarUK

📍 Twitter/X: @TellarSizing

📍 Facebook: TellarSizing


Final Word: Whether you're shopping high-street or luxury, jacket fit should never be a compromise. Let Tellar.co.uk guide your next purchase—so you get a jacket that fits your shape, your size, and your lifestyle.