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Different Styles of Shirts: Luxury Designer Brands vs High Street Best Buys

Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar

Date: 2025

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The shirt remains one of the most fundamental garments in both men’s and women’s wardrobes. From precise tailoring to fabric composition, shirt design spans a wide range of styles, purposes, and quality standards. In this guide, we explore the technical distinctions between luxury and high street shirts, backed by factual comparisons in material science, garment construction, production scale, and fit consistency—plus recommendations across both categories.

At Tellar.co.uk, our sizing tool uses body measurements and a proprietary fit algorithm to match your size across 1,500+ brands, bridging the inconsistencies between labels like COS, Massimo Dutti, Saint Laurent, and Uniqlo. This guide includes direct size links and shirt-specific fit tips.


Common Shirt Styles: Definitions and Functional Differences

Understanding shirt architecture is essential before assessing brand value. Below are the most prevalent shirt styles by structural and functional criteria:

1. Classic Button-Up

  • Construction: Full-length placket, stand collar, sleeve placket, and cuff.

  • Fabrics: Generally made from woven poplin, broadcloth, or oxford cloth.

  • Best For: Businesswear, formal occasions, or layered under suiting.

2. Oversized Shirt

  • Construction: Extended shoulder seams, dropped sleeves, boxy torso.

  • Fit Note: Requires proportional adjustment across chest and armhole.

  • Best For: Layering, streetwear, or relaxed tailoring.

3. Silk Shirt

  • Fabric Type: Charmeuse, habotai or sandwashed silk; generally 14–22 momme weight.

  • Best For: Eveningwear, luxury loungewear, or elevated daywear.

4. Utility Shirt

  • Features: Patch pockets, box pleats, reinforced seams.

  • Best For: Casual wear, particularly transitional seasons (cotton twill or brushed cotton).

5. Western Shirt

  • Signature Details: Yoke detail on shoulders, pearl snap buttons.

  • Fabrics: Usually denim, brushed cotton or chambray.

  • Best For: Casual and festival wear.

For an in-depth fit guide by shirt type, visit:

🔗 How Shirt Materials Affect Fit

🔗 Shirts for Curvy Bodies


Luxury Shirts: Technical Attributes and Brand Standards

Luxury shirts are not simply more expensive; they often justify the cost through superior textile quality, tailored cuts, and longevity of construction.

1. Fabric Quality

  • Cotton: Sourced from long-staple Egyptian or Sea Island cotton, increasing softness and pilling resistance.

  • Silk: Graded by momme (19–22 momme being premium), hand-finished, and often enzyme-washed for texture.

  • Linen: Belgian or Italian-spun, pre-washed to prevent excess shrinkage and provide drape.

2. Construction Methods

  • Seaming: Flat-felled seams or French seams reduce internal abrasion and increase durability.

  • Button Stitching: Often hand-sewn with reinforced cross-stitch and shank spacing for longevity.

  • Fit Engineering: Pattern-cutting software or bespoke hand-drafting is used to ensure anatomical shoulder slope and sleeve pitch alignment.

3. Design Philosophy

  • Designer shirts frequently feature:

    • Precision darts for waist shaping

    • Continuous plackets

    • Bias-cut panels for mobility or shape retention

    • Hidden button placements or hand-rolled hems

4. Sustainability and Ethics

Luxury brands like BITE Studios, Totême, and Stella McCartney publish traceability reports, use certified organic or circular fibres, and partner with low-volume, artisanal workshops.


Luxury Brand Recommendations – 2025

Brand

Key Features

Ideal For

The Row

High-twist Italian cotton, invisible seams

Minimalist dress shirts

Saint Laurent

Silk crepe, ultra-slim fit, exaggerated cuffs

Evening wear

Totême

Boxy cotton styles, branded buttons

Capsule wardrobes

Dries Van Noten

Pattern-cut motifs, unconventional dyeing

Statement pieces

Raey (Matches)

Sandwashed silk, oversized cuts

Androgynous layering


High Street Shirts: Strengths and Limitations

While high street shirts lack bespoke craftsmanship, modern innovations in textile blending and mass production have improved consistency and quality.

1. Materials

  • Cotton Mixes: Often blended with polyester (up to 40%) for wrinkle resistance and shape retention.

  • Sustainable Alternatives: Brands like Arket and M&S offer GOTS-certified organic cotton, lyocell (TENCEL), or BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) products.

  • Finishes: Mercerised or sanforised cotton is common, increasing sheen and reducing post-wash shrinkage.

2. Construction Shortcuts

  • Most high street shirts use lock-stitching, machine-set buttons, and fused collars, reducing cost but also garment lifespan.

  • Mass-produced sizing (e.g. S/M/L) leads to less anatomical accuracy across bust, shoulder, and waist measurements.

3. Design and Fit

  • Emphasis on trend replication: voluminous sleeves, cropped cuts, or printed collars.

  • Shorter production cycles mean frequent design refreshes but less R&D on fit engineering.


Top High Street Shirt Brands (UK)

Brand

Known For

Best Shirt Types

COS

High-density cotton, structured cuts

Officewear classics

Arket

Organic fabrics, tonal minimalism

Everyday basics

& Other Stories

Embellishments, flared sleeves

Trend-led designs

Uniqlo

Supima cotton, wrinkle-free tech

Everyday essentials

M&S

Inclusive sizing, 2-way stretch

Workwear staples

Zara

Fashion-forward design

Occasion or trend shirts

For side-by-side size recommendations across these brands, use:

🔗 Store Size Lookup


Luxury vs High Street: Technical Sizing Differences

Category

Luxury

High Street

Size Labels

EU (36–42), FR (38–44)

UK standard (8–18)

Sizing Variance

High (based on fashion cuts)

Moderate (S/M/L structure)

Shrinkage

Minimal (pre-treated)

Moderate (cotton blends)

Garment Longevity

7–15 years (with care)

2–5 years (typical wear)

Pattern Accuracy

Tailored with darts or pleats

Straight block cuts

For international size conversions and automated fit suggestions, try:

🔗 Tellar Profile Tool


How to Evaluate Shirt Quality in Store or Online

  • Check GSM (grams per square metre): Cotton shirts with GSM >130 tend to last longer and drape better.

  • Button Material: Mother-of-pearl buttons are typical in premium shirts; plastic is common in high street.

  • Stitch Count: A high-end shirt will have 14–22 stitches per inch (SPI), while fast fashion may have <10 SPI.

  • Collar Stiffening: Removable collar stays and fused interlinings offer a longer-lasting collar shape.

  • Back Yoke: A split yoke (fabric cut on the bias) improves shoulder fit, rarely found in mass market shirts.


Care Considerations: Fabric Longevity

Fabric

Wash Temperature

Ironing

Notes

Cotton Poplin

30–40°C

High heat

Iron inside-out

Silk

Cold hand wash / dry clean

Low heat

Avoid water spots

Linen

30°C, gentle

Medium heat

Tumble drying discouraged

Polyester Blends

40°C

Medium

Retains shape but pills over time


Final Considerations: Which Should You Choose?

  • For Daily Wear: Opt for Arket or Uniqlo with durable cotton blends and easy care.

  • For Investment Pieces: A silk shirt from The Row or tailored cotton from Totême offers longevity, elevated design, and better fit.

  • For Fit-Sensitive Buyers: Use Tellar.co.uk’s size-matching tool to ensure correct fit regardless of brand.


✅ Start with Your Measurements – It’s Free & Easy

At Tellar.co.uk, we help you:

  • Match your measurements to the correct size in 1,500+ brands

  • See fit differences between luxury and high street

  • Convert sizes across UK, EU, FR, US standards

  • Get real-time sizing on web or app (coming soon)

👉 Create your size profile now

👉 Or try the Store Size Lookup Tool


Connect With Us for More Sizing Insights:


Let Tellar.co.uk simplify your shirt shopping—wherever you choose to buy. Whether it’s silk from Saint Laurent or poplin from COS, fit comes first—and we help you get it right, every time.

Different Styles of Shirts: Luxury Designer Brands vs High Street Best Buys