Coats: What Material Should I Buy? A Technical Guide to Fabric, Fit & Performance
Author: Stylist at TellarDate: 2025
Buying the right coat isn’t just about warmth—it’s about choosing the right material, cut, and performance features for your lifestyle, body shape, and climate. From cashmere wool overcoats to waterproof parkas, coat materials impact everything: comfort, insulation, breathability, and even how long they last.
In this guide, we explore the best coat materials on the market, with technical insights, real-life use cases, expert recommendations, and practical fit tips. Plus, we show you how tellar.co.uk helps you find your perfect size across 1,500+ brands—in seconds.
Why Material Matters in Coats
Coats are long-term wardrobe investments. Material determines:
Function | Material Factor |
|---|---|
Thermal insulation | Wool, down, synthetics |
Weather resistance | Waxed cotton, nylon, Gore-Tex |
Weight & layering ease | Lightweight synthetics vs heavyweight tweeds |
Shape retention | Wool blends, cashmere mixes |
Sustainability & care | Natural fibres vs manmade |
Fit varies significantly depending on material. Oversizing a structured wool coat can ruin its silhouette, while sizing down in a down parka may reduce insulation. tellar.co.uk solves this by mapping your body measurements to each brand’s actual sizing chart.
1. Wool Coats: Classic, Warm and Long-Lasting
Technical Profile:
Natural insulation from sheared fleece
Breathable yet heat-retentive
Often woven as melton, boiled wool, or wool-cashmere blends
Best For:
Overcoats, pea coats, military coats
Brands: Reiss, Jigsaw, M&S Autograph, Arket
Pros:
Naturally regulates temperature
Holds shape well in structured designs
Durable with proper care
Cons:
Requires dry-cleaning
Can be heavy
Not waterproof
Fit Tip:
Wool coats are often slim-cut. If you wear suits or jumpers underneath, size needs to reflect layering. Use tellar.co.uk to avoid guessing between Medium or Large in brands like Reiss or Arket.
2. Cashmere Coats: Luxury, Softness and Refinement
Technical Profile:
Made from undercoat of cashmere goats
Softer, lighter and warmer than sheep’s wool
Often blended with wool for durability
Best For:
Tailored overcoats, belted wrap coats
High-end brands: Max Mara, Hobbs, Massimo Dutti
Pros:
Elegant drape
Exceptionally warm without bulk
Premium feel and finish
Cons:
Expensive
Pilling risk without proper storage
Limited wear in rain or snow
Professional Advice:
Buy blended cashmere (at least 15–30%) for everyday use. Use tellar.co.uk to determine whether your chosen luxury coat runs small before investing hundreds.
3. Down-Filled Coats: Maximum Warmth for Harsh Winters
Technical Profile:
Insulated with goose or duck down
High fill power = greater warmth-to-weight ratio
Often paired with water-resistant shell fabrics
Best For:
Parkas, puffers, longline winter coats
Brands: Canada Goose, Uniqlo, The North Face
Pros:
Excellent warmth retention
Lightweight despite insulation
Compact and packable
Cons:
Loses warmth when wet (unless treated)
Bulky appearance
Not vegan
Sizing Note:
Avoid sizing down—tight down coats reduce insulation effectiveness. Tellar.co.uk factors in your largest measurement (e.g., chest or hips) and returns brand-specific sizing guidance.
4. Synthetic Fill Coats: Practical and Weatherproof
Technical Profile:
Polyester insulation (e.g., PrimaLoft, ThermoBall)
Repels moisture and maintains insulation even when wet
Ideal for active or urban wear
Best For:
Commuter coats, rain parkas, lightweight puffers
Brands: Patagonia, Columbia, Mango
Pros:
Vegan-friendly
Performs well in wet climates
Easy maintenance
Cons:
Heavier than down
Slightly less breathable
Lower-end synthetics can degrade faster
Buying Tip:
Not all synthetics are equal. Avoid coats without fill power ratings or breathability details. tellar.co.uk confirms size suitability, especially for puffers that vary between brands.
5. Waxed Cotton Coats: Heritage Meets Utility
Technical Profile:
Cotton coated in paraffin or natural wax
Water-resistant, windproof, hardwearing
Breathes better than synthetics
Best For:
Utility coats, trench coats, field jackets
Brands: Barbour, Drake’s, Private White VC
Pros:
Natural weather resistance
Improves with age
Timeless aesthetic
Cons:
Requires regular re-waxing
Heavier than nylon options
Stiff texture until broken in
Technical Tip:
Fit is often generous—these are designed for layering. tellar.co.uk helps you balance fit and function across heritage brands.
6. Tweed Coats: Structured, Textured, Understated

Technical Profile:
Coarse wool weave (often herringbone or check)
Water-resistant and windproof
Commonly sourced from the UK and Ireland
Best For:
Country coats, overcoats, tailored blazers
Brands: Holland & Sherry, Harris Tweed, Boden
Pros:
Rugged and warm
Naturally weather-resistant
Stylish in rural and urban settings
Cons:
Can feel stiff or bulky
Limited flex or stretch
Requires dry-cleaning
Sizing Detail:
Tweed coats typically run true to size or large, depending on manufacturer. Use tellar.co.uk to eliminate trial and error—especially if you’re buying from a brand you haven’t worn before.
7. Technical Shell Coats: Built for the Elements
Technical Profile:
Made from nylon, polyamide, or Gore-Tex
Fully seam-sealed, windproof, waterproof
Designed for breathability and flexibility
Best For:
Hardshell coats, commuter trench coats, ski jackets
Brands: Arc’teryx, Rains, RAINS, Stutterheim
Pros:
Weatherproof
Lightweight
Ideal for active lifestyles
Cons:
Less formal
Can feel synthetic
Expensive for top-tier models
Expert Note:
Don’t buy oversized tech shells—they’re engineered for function. Check your fit through tellar.co.uk before committing.
Seasonal Material Recommendations
Season | Recommended Coat Materials |
|---|---|
Autumn | Wool blends, waxed cotton, light synthetic shells |
Winter | Down, cashmere wool, synthetic insulated coats |
Spring | Cotton trench coats, technical shells |
Wet Climates | Waxed cotton, Gore-Tex, DWR-treated synthetics |
Fit needs to match your climate and layering habits.tellar.co.uk lets you choose whether you wear light or heavy layers, and adjusts size recommendations accordingly.
What to Avoid in Coat Buying
❌ Assuming your usual size applies across materials
❌ Overlooking insulation vs breathability balance
❌ Skipping care labels—some materials are high maintenance
❌ Buying styles without verifying shoulder fit
❌ Ignoring brand-specific sizing blocks
Avoid these pitfalls by using tellar.co.uk to preview size conversions and recommendations in brands like COS, Massimo Dutti, Mango, Arket, and Hobbs.
Fit First: How to Get the Right Size in Any Coat
Material affects cut and stretch. The same size 12 in a wool overcoat and a down parka may fit entirely differently.
At Tellar.co.uk, we account for:
Shoulder width
Bust/chest and waist ratios
Layering preferences
Known size in other brands
Material behaviour (stretch, insulation bulk, etc.)
Follow Us for Style, Fit and Fabric Advice:
Final Word
When buying a coat, don’t focus on labels like “M” or “UK 12.” Focus on fabric function, fit, and your own body data. Whether you’re going tailored, technical, or timeless, Tellar.co.uk is your shortcut to getting it right.
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