Shirt Fabric Matters: How to Choose the Right Material for Fit, Function and Everyday Style

The shirt you wear says a lot about your style—but what it’s made from matters just as much. Whether you’re after a crisp formal shirt, a laid-back linen piece for summer, or a breathable layer for daily wear, your choice of fabric will determine how that shirt fits, feels and lasts.

This in-depth guide explores the most commonly used shirt materials, how they affect fit and sizing, and how to find the perfect one for your needs. With support from Tellar.co.uk—the UK’s leading free sizing tool—you can match your measurements to your ideal shirt in over 1,500 fashion brands, whether you're buying from high street favourites or premium designers.

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Why Fabric Dictates Fit, Drape, and Durability

Material affects a shirt’s:

Before choosing your next shirt, read:

→ Why Clothing Sizes Vary So Widely Across Brands

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1. Cotton Poplin – Precise, Crisp and Lightweight

Material Facts:

• Plain weave using fine single-ply yarns (80s–120s)

• Woven with a high density (110–140 GSM)

• Typically 100% cotton but may include poly or elastane blends

Best For:

• Office shirts, occasionwear, school/formal uniforms

Excellent Brands:

• Charles Tyrwhitt, Eton, TM Lewin, Reiss Tailored, Marks & Spencer Sartorial, John Lewis & Partners

Fit Advice:

Poplin has virtually no natural stretch. Shirts in this fabric should be carefully matched to your shoulder, chest and neck measurements. Tellar.co.uk’s measurement tool ensures you're not caught between sizes in formalwear.

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2. Oxford Weave – Casual, Textured and Hardwearing

Technical Facts:

• Basketweave using thicker yarns (40s–60s)

• Typically 140–160 GSM

• Naturally wrinkle-prone but improves with washing

Best Use:

• Layering pieces, workwear, smart-casual staples

Brand Highlights:

• GANT (Heavy Oxford), Ralph Lauren, Drake’s, Uniqlo U Collection, Barbour Shirts, Crew Clothing

Tip:

Oxford shirts run larger than poplin. If you're wearing it tucked or under tailoring, size down with confidence using Tellar’s brand fit engine.

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3. Linen & Linen Blends – Ultra-Cool and Naturally Antibacterial

Technical Breakdown:

• Flax fibre with low thread count (~60–100), high air flow

• Naturally moisture-wicking and UV-resistant

• Can shrink by 3–5% if not pre-washed

Best For:

• Summer wardrobes, beachwear, heat-adaptive layers

Brand Leaders:

• Massimo Dutti, Arket Linen Range, Sunspel, Zara Linen-Blend Shirts, Percival, Wax London

For More on Warm-Weather Dressing:

→ Perfect Holiday Clothes: The Holiday Edit

→ Best Styles for Summer Dresses (Applies to Linen Shirts Too)

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4. Cotton Twill – Wrinkle-Resistant, Smooth, and Long-Lasting

Fabric Insights:

• Diagonal weave, moderate weight (130–170 GSM)

• Better wrinkle recovery than poplin or Oxford

• Common in non-iron formal shirts

Applications:

• Autumn/winter office shirts, high-end tailoring

Best-In-Class Brands:

• Eton, Hawes & Curtis, Reiss, Hackett, Thomas Pink, Van Heusen

Expert Insight:

Twill allows for more movement and drape than poplin, even at the same labelled size. Tellar ensures your fit accommodates both cut and fabric behaviour.

→ The Blazer Fit Guide: What to Buy for Your Body Shape

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5. Brushed Cotton & Flannel – Warm, Soft and Perfect for Autumn

Technical Breakdown:

• Raised nap (surface fibre) enhances softness and warmth

• Often twill-woven at 160–200 GSM

• Pre-shrunk in quality brands

Ideal For:

• Transitional layering, weekend shirts, outdoor looks

Recommended Labels:

• NN07, Levi’s, Wax London, Carhartt WIP, Portuguese Flannel, Universal Works

Pro Tip:

These shirts typically run more generous. If you’re layering with a t-shirt, select fit with help from Tellar.co.uk to accommodate bulk without oversizing.

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6. Stretch Blends – Contoured, Office-Friendly, Flexible

Composition:

• Cotton with 2–6% elastane or spandex

• Woven into poplin, twill or sateen bases

• Reduces need for darts or tailoring

Best Uses:

• Tucked shirts, desk-to-dinner outfits, body-contouring fits

Go-To Brands:

• Hugo Boss, Ted Baker, Next Slim Fit, Zara Fitted, H&M Premium Stretch, Banana Republic

Tip:

Stretch shirts vary widely by label. What’s a Medium in Zara could feel like a Small in Boss.

→ Which Brands Run Small, Which Run Large?

→ How Zara Sizes Actually Work

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7. Viscose, Modal & Rayon Blends – Drape-Heavy and Statement-Friendly

Material Science:

• Semi-synthetics made from wood pulp

• GSM typically 120–150, but denser than cotton

• Great colour retention, excellent drape

Use Cases:

• Printed shirts, oversized or open-collar silhouettes

Stylish Picks:

• AllSaints, COS, Arket, River Island, ASOS Design, Selected Homme

Care Note:

These fibres are prone to shape loss under high heat. Always air dry and iron on low. Tellar helps you determine ideal fit for overshirts vs tuck-ins based on shirt cut.

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Bonus: Technical Shirt Care Matrix

→ Clothing Materials That Last: Technical Guide

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Find the Perfect Fit Every Time—Powered by Tellar

At Tellar.co.uk, we don’t just guess your size. We:

• Match your body to real brand data using chest, shoulders, waist and arm length

• Adjust for fabric behaviour (e.g. shrinkage, stretch, structure)

• Factor in fit type: relaxed, tailored, slim or oversized

• Offer personalised recommendations in 1,500+ global and UK brands

✅ Create Your Free Fit Profile

✅ Look Up Any Store or Brand

✅ Avoid Size Errors & Returns

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Keep Learning with Tellar

• → High Fashion vs High Street Sizing: What to Know

• → Best Autumnal Clothes: What Works Layered

• → Holiday Ready Clothing Guide

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Connect With Tellar

Stay updated on sizing advice, fit trends and material breakdowns:

• Instagram: @Tellarsizing

• Pinterest: TellarSizing

• Facebook: Tellar Sizing

• X (Twitter): @TellarSizing

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